Set In Sleeve to Raglan Sleeve with Knits!

Hello! Gosh, its been an awfully long time since I blogged anything, huh? Things have been super busy around here, but starting to settle down and so I’m jumping back into blogging my makes. Also because I have a LOT of things that need to get made, including some new patterns!

Are you a member over at Capsule Wardrobe Sewalong on Facebook? If so, you may have seen the post asking for raglan fitting help from member Laura B. She had tried a couple of raglan patterns out and was just still not satisfied with fit, and she mentioned that what she’d really love is if The Laundry Day Tee from Love Notions was a raglan because she loved the fit of that top so much. Another member then linked a couple of tutorials for turning a set in sleeve to a raglan and well, here we are!

 

Now, I am going to do my best to describe well enough exactly what I did, but because I did this just on MY size LDT and I was sort of winging it, I cannot guarantee that this exact way will work for everyone, BUT I did get a decent outcome out of it, so its a good starting place. I think at least, lol.

First, I’ll link the two tutorials for reference:

–The first is from Em Makes Patterns, and I’m pretty certain she is using a woven pattern for this, which is somewhat problematic because LDT is a knit, BUT still some good advice.

 

–The second, is from The Cutting Class and its really not so much of a tutorial as a visual on the difference between a raglan sleeve and a standard, or set in, sleeve.

Ready for to start?

Here goes!

First up, is the pattern. I traced my size LDT and went just to about the waistline because all I really need is the upper bodice and this conserves fabric.

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Next, from the Em tutorial, I marked and then removed the seam allowance since it said to do that first. It also talked about figuring the ease and removing that too, and I did attempt to do that, but it was complicated and since I’m using a knit, I decided to just forgo that.

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Next, I sort of did the shoulder marking point thing talked about in the Em tutorial, where you walk the sleeve into the armscye and mark the top of the shoulder point. I was not super precise here at all. Like AT ALL, lol. I then laid the pattern pieces out as shown and I don’t know if it was coincidental or what, but the space between the top of the sleeve and where the shoulder piece lifted was 1.5cm, exactly what the Em tut said to swing it out to.

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I actually went back and pulled the sleeve piece out to lay on top like shown in the CC post because having it lay under like shown above was confusing when I went to try to draw the raglan line.It made sooooo much more sense the way CC showed it.

I was really hesitant on where exactly and how to draw the line, and I drew and erased a few times before just going for it. I wonder, if at this point, it might work to lay an existing raglan bodice or sleeve down and try to use that line? But I don’t know if it would mash well or not at all.

 

These are the pattern pieces I ended up with! Time to cut and sew right?!

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Riiiiiight, except I didn’t go back and re-add the seam allowance to the new pattern pieces, I just got excited and cut. However, since this is a knit, I was hoping it wouldn’t be too bad. And actually, it certainly LOOKS good!

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I just had to get a quick fit gauge done before I put on the neckband, so imagine my surprise, when it actually seemed to fit!

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Raglan seam close up:

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Attempt at a back view:

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Now, to throw a neckband on and see how it looks overall!

I completely jacked up the neckband, so kind of ignore that it looks odd, but it still does its job as part of the garment.

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Closeup

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With a real bra on:

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Attempt again at a back view

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FINAL THOUGHTS: I think this turned out really well! I do have wrinkles at the armpit, but I also don’t have a full length top and it kept creeping up, so I’m not sure if that’s a factor. I’m also not sure if I was supposed to add the seam allowance back in or not. It actually feels great, not tight and I think it looks ok too. Maybe a little bit more snug than the way the LDT typically fits, but I’ve also thought that I could size down up top in the LDT too and I haven’t tried doing that yet, so maybe that’s part of it? Not sure.

I definitely recommend reading the whole Em tutorial before tackling this because there’s a lot of insight there, and I just kind of took away what I could understand and thought would work.

If anyone else tries this, let me know your thoughts!!

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